Monday, August 6, 2012

Down Under Day 7: Kuranda and Cairns


I wanted to sleep in today, since we've had to be up early the last two days, but that plan (sort of) failed. We got up around 815 to get tickets and then head over to the Cairns train station to catch the Kuranda Scenic Railway, a 2-hour historic train ride up to the rainforest town of Kuranda.








The train ride is definitely scenic, as you wind your way up the mountains, around deep gorges, through 15 tunnels, and even past a waterfall (of the Barron River). For some reason, all of the 20 other people in our train car were over 70, but when we saw the crowd getting off the other cars, we were reassured that Kuranda wasn't just one big retirement home!








My cold is lingering, so combined with the lack of sleep and of breakfast, I was exceptionally low energy. The first stop was lunch, at the Rainforest View Restaurant. Cheap prices can be explained by the small portion sizes. The food was tasty (and the waitresses cute), but that didn't really help the empty stomach.

Our first post-lunch stop was the Australian Butterfly Sanctuary, a butterfly breeding and exhibition site in Kuranda. The main attraction is a large greenhouse of rainforest plants and a HUGE number of butterflies flying around. Seriously not for the insect-phobic. There were several very colorful species floating around, including the electric blue Ulysses butterfly, and the green Cairns birdwing, but it's remarkably hard to get good pictures of most, because they fold up their wings when they land.




The two drab-looking butterflies below are actually brilliant blue Ulysses butterflies, but they've folded their wings so that the colorful top halves are hardly showing.






In addition to the main greenhouse, there's also a small museum showing transfixed specimens., and the breeding laboratory, where you can see living examples of every life cycle stage of most of the butterflies. It turns out that the Hercules moth has a suitably gigantic caterpillar:




After the butterfly sanctuary, we visited the Kuranda Koala Gardens, a small zoo showing off crocodiles, snakes, turtles, and the star attractions: kangaroos and wallabies you can feed, and koalas with which you can take pictures. Though we'd just seen most of these animals at the Taronga Zoo, this was interesting because the small size of the park meant you could get much closer to the animals. None of us opted to pay to get a picture cuddling a koala, though.







On the way back, we took the Skyrail, a 45 minute cable car that flies over the rain forest canopy to Caravonica (a town just outside the Cairns airport). The view from the Skyrail is amazing, both over the canopy and as you descend from the mountains back to the coastal areas. Additionally, there are two stops (at the Barron River and Red Peak), with short interpretive boardwalk nature trails that are interesting and can easily be covered in 20 minutes apiece. At the first stop, there's an option to take a hike through the rainforest with an Aboriginal guide, but we didn't have enough time this time around. Have to save some stuff for the next trip!














Near the Skyrail base, presumably in Caravonica, there's a lake where people were water-skiing while being pulled by a cable setup circling the lake. That looks awesome.



Dinner was the $12 "famous Aussie BBQ" at our hostel, the Tropic Days. The BBQ is justifiably famous, serving up 5 kinds of salad, beef sausages, barramundi, crocodile, emu, and kangaroo.


Clockwise from top center: beef, barramundi, emu, crocodile, kangaroo.


I was expecting emu to be chicken-like, but it's actually a remarkably beef-like red meat. Kangaroo is similar, but with a slightly different texture. Both were extremely lean -- no marbling. Crocodile was actually quite chicken-like, but a bit tougher and with chunks of border fat like you would find on red meat.

Down Under Day 6: Port Douglas and the Great Barrier Reef


Had to get up super early today to catch the 645a shuttle bus over to Port Douglas, from which was scheduled to depart a boat to take us out to the Great Barrier Reef. There is a seemingly infinite number of tour companies, but on a recommendation I had received the day of our flight out to Sydney, I booked our tour with Aristocat, which offered both snorkeling and introductory SCUBA for those without certification.

90 minutes later we arrived in Port Douglas and, after some quick check-in formalities, boarded the boat:



It's the twin-hulled catamaran in the middle.


Aristocat does tours of the Agincourt Ribbon Reefs, on the Outer Great Barrier Reef. They advertise it as being the best; I don't have much point of comparison, but it was definitely pretty amazing! I did three introductory dives (one at each of the three sites we visited), EJ snorkeled at each site, and Omar opted to stay on board, take pictures, and be afraid of fish.









The instructor on board, Yannick, was super helpful and did a great job. After a first couple of nervous minutes, I settled into the routine easily and finally began to notice the surroundings. The Reef really is amazing. I didn't have a housing for my camera, but it's unlikely that pictures would have done it justice anyway. The huge variety (shapes, sizes, colors, behavior) of the fish, the various sessile animals and their reactions to things swimming by them (watching coral retreat is surprisingly amusing), and the bottom-dwellers too -- like nothing I've done before. Awesome experience.

I did some snorkeling after my dive at the first dive site, but at the second one I got up and ate lunch, and after the third I was tired and just wanted to catch some rays on the deck. I ordered photos from the dive photographer and even had them put them on our memory card in hopes that I could attach them to this post, but no such luck -- the iPad doesn't see them! Oh well.







We had beautiful weather for the entire day, but especially on the ride back, which was perfectly smooth.



Just to top it off, we even had a whale sighting just outside Port Douglas:




Dinner was Thai food in Cairns. Pretty good, nothing terribly exciting. The quality of the prawns here is top-notch, though.

Saturday, August 4, 2012

Down Under Day 5: Cairns


Today was a travel day, so there's not an awful lot to report. We left the hotel just past 7 to catch our flight to Cairns (protip: the Virgin Australia Airpass is really good if you have three or more flights in Australia, because it's cheaper than the fares you'll find on VA or Jetstar using Kayak, and it includes a checked bag too. Win.)

Sydney airport

Sydney CBD (downtown, in American)

Reef islands off the Queensland coast as you approach Cairns
Cairns itself is fairly sparse -- it's very much a tourist-focused town, and one that's used as a base camp to go to other places. Tons of hostels, travel agencies, cheap restaurants and pubs, but not much in the way of sights. Pigeon Forge, TN, came to mind, but that's unfair; Cairns isn't offensive, it's a transit point. Curiously, Cairns has no beach, just a giant mud flat:

As a consequence, they've built a large pool, with some sand by the side, and a walkway by the shore named the Esplanade:


Since there wasn't a whole lot to do (and I'm dodging a cold), we got lunch at the mall, and watched Abraham Lincoln: Vampire Hunter. In 3D. Aww yeah.

Down Under Day 4: Sydney

A couple days ago, I opined to my brothers that Circular Quay was Sydney's version of SF's Fisherman's Wharf. I was wrong; that (dis?)honor belongs to Darling Harbour, a massive collection of food courts, tourist traps, and a couple of gems.





We briefly considered visiting the Aquarium, but couldn't stomach the $35 entrance tickets right after we'd just been to the zoo. At no point did we consider visiting the wax museum. Lunch was surprisingly generous portions of Chinese food from the lunch special menu at the Dragon Boat restaurant in the Harbourside shopping mall. We followed lunch with a visit to the adjacent Australian National Maritime Museum.

Omar and EJ opted for the conventional $7 entrance ticket granting access to the internal exhibition galleries, which had some pretty interesting exhibits about ships, including indigenous art, water speed record-breaking boats, and a boat made of beer cans:







A lighthouse lens from New Zealand








I think the world is ready for a "6 catfish moon" shirt.








This one is perplexing. The flag has 44 stars. The caption says 48, but also says that the flag dates from 1908...when there were 46 states. Wat?



Unlike the other two, I went for the $25 "big ticket" that also included admission to the ships out in the harbor. Because we were short on time, I skipped the tall ship, but did check out the gun destroyer HMAS Vampire and the submarine HMAS Onslow. Probably the coolest things I've seen so far.



Vampire was nicknamed "the bat"






Torpedo tubes on Onslow



beautiful design on a submarine? Cool. (oxygen generator)


After I got off the boats, we walked across Sydney to have a quick look at King's Cross. I get the sense it may be more interesting after dark. There's a cool fountain, though.




One thing King's Cross was certainly good for was a proliferation of cheap kebab joints, which provided dinner -- the first döner kebab of the trip!




Why didn't we hang out at KX at night? Because we had tickets to the Sydney Symphony, of course. Great sound in the Opera House behind the players, as they performed symphonic dances by Brahms, Dvorak, and Rachmaninoff.






Thursday, August 2, 2012

Down Under Day 3: Sydney


Today ended up being (relatively speaking) a pretty lazy day, with only two major sites visited; we spent a lot of time in the hotel sitting around reading.

Our morning stop was the Sydney Observatory, which was the first (and for some time the only) time standard in Sydney. It looked like a lot of the exhibits had recently been redone, as the general theme (other than history) was the recent transit of Venus, and observations of past transits from Sydney. Hands down for me, though, the coolest things in the Observatory were the orreries, mechanical arrangements showing the orbits of the planets and the moons. Exposed mechanical intricacies are pretty sweet:






After the observatory, we grabbed some quick sandwiches at a deli by Circular Quay and boarded a ferry over to the Taronga Zoo. There was a bit of walking involved here, as you can't buy student-discount tickets on the Sydney side of things, and the ticket station at the base of the Sky Safari gondola (which carries you up to the top level of the zoo) was closed. A short hike up to the lower entrance to buy tickets and back to the base of the gondola later, we were flying above the elephant zone to the top of the zoo.




I made the same mistake here as I did last time - thinking that the zoo closes at 5 rather than 4:30 - but we got to see pretty much everything in our just under 4 hours. Wouldn't have hurt to have had a little more time, as we were a bit rushed towards the end. The reptile exhibits are pretty awesome, and we got to see feeding times for some pythons as well as for the tigers! Unfortunately, no platypus showed up, neither outdoors nor in the indoor tanks.




















Omar and EJ acquitted themselves well on the return trip, where I gave them a 5 minute lead from Circular Quay and challenged them to get back to the hotel on their own. After some more reading (Stephen Jay Gould's Eight Little Piggies for me, Game of Thrones for Omar, and some iPod games for EJ), Meat Fest 2012 continued apace, with dinner at Churrasco, a Brazilian BBQ a block from our hotel. I'd say the beef isn't quite as good as what I had in South America, but the lamb...oh man, the lamb. So good. The restaurant had a pretty legit chimichurri sauce as well, and their take on fried bananas was different and good. They were lightly breaded, sugared, and fried with some cinnamon, making them like a churro with a banana rather than bread center. Great cheese bread too!