South America, Days 19-20: Buenos Aires, Argentina

Asado de tira (short ribs) and garlic fries at Desnivel, in the San Telmo district:

The colorful Caminito, in the La Boca neighborhood, the traditional home of the tango.

The Riachuelo is the river that runs adjacent to La Boca, and it's incredibly polluted. The Museo de Bellas Artes Quinquela Martin, the fine arts museum in La Boca, had an exhibit of political comics about the Riachuelo. Here, a rocker protests: "Unscrupulous industries pollute the Riachuelo with [literal] heavy metals...like chromium, mercury, lead, cadmium, and zinc. I don't want a heavy metal river!"

The museum also had a cool outdoor statuary exhibit.

Next up in La Boca was La Bombonera, the stadium of Boca Juniors, one of the two big soccer teams in Buenos Aires. The stadium itself is cool and there's an interesting museum of the team's history (including a giant mural of Maradona).

The fences near the goals are probably 20 feet high, and are topped with barbed wire, because the diehards who stand here climb the fences when Boca scores:

At night, I walked around the Plaza Colon, behind the Casa Rosada (see Day 2).

The fountain behind the Casa is lit Argentine blue:

The A line on the Buenos Aires subway has creaky old wooden cars that are very retro. Also very slow.

MOAR STEAK. Also a salad, from Gran Parilla del Plata, in San Telmo. Possibly better than La Cabrera, in Palermo. Delicious.